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The History of Jewelry


Fashion and Jewelry have been tightly coupled throughout all the ages. 
Current events as well as people also played major roles in the evolution of jewelry styles and designs.

 Period Name

Time Period

Facts & Period Characteristics

     
Georgian  
1760 -1837
 

Much political unrest in Europe and the US.
(The French & American Revolutions, Napoleon Wars, War between the US and Great Britain, The Prussian War of Liberation)

Ironwork & cut steel jewelry popular due to the need for
 precious metals in the various war efforts.

Handpainted mourning jewelry was popular as
 remembrances of loved ones.
 
Victorian
Early Victorian

1837 - 1860s

Romantic Period
(Victoria and Albert)
 
Era began when Victoria ascended the throne of England in 1837.
Intricate engravings with delicate enameling is popular. Coral, seed beads, coral and turquoise are the gems of choice.
Floral motifs, and animals - such as snakes in jewelry designs  were common.
 
Mid Victorian
1860 - 1889
The Grand Period
 

Prince Albert's death in 1861 sent Queen Victoria into deep mourning.  This monumental event was also carried over into the fashion world.

Heaviness and dark colors dominated jewelry themes.

Hair was worked into Mourning jewelry
Jet, Bog Oak, Gutta Percha and Vulcanite were popular mediums for jewelry
 
 
Late Victorian

1889 - 1905

Aesthetic Period

 

Queen Victoria celebrates her golden jubilee as Queen.  Death of the Queen in 1901 puts an end to this era as well.

Jewelry as well as fabrics become lighter with curves and straighter lines.

Jewelry became smaller than the past era.

Diamonds and pastes are popular as evening wear.

Cultured pearls are introduced to the market in 1893.
 
Edwardian
(La Belle Epoche)

1890s - 1915
 

Jewelry was delicate, light and airy - in opposition to the previous era of heaviness & dark colors.

Pierced filigrees, bows, ribbons and baskets, diamonds (or pastes) were mixed with pearls. The garland style with flowers and leaves were worked into swag and wreath designs.

  Chatelaines were resurrected, sautoirs, as well as lavaliers and even tiaras were at the height of fashion.
 
Art Nouveau
1890s - 1919
 

Insects, animals & nature are very popular motifs.  Dragonflies, flies, bats, as well as vines, tendrils and flowers were popular. 
'plique a jour' enameling was very jewelry as it gave an airy & translucent quality to the jewelry.
 
Arts & Crafts
(Mission Style)

1890 - 1914
 

Era has roots in Europe where a social revolt against the
consequences of the industrial revolution on individual workers was taking place.

Emphasis on hand-crafted items using the palettes of organic colors (moss greens, terra cotta, warm browns, ambers &
 mustard) and use of natural materials such as bronze, brass, copper and glass.
Hammering of the metal was a very popular technique
 
Transitional
1915 - 1925
 

The era when the design elements of Victorian, Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts were still major styles.
Art deco was also coming into its own.
Jewelry from this era may portray various design elements from all the styles popular at this time.
 
Art Deco
1920s - 1930s
 

Divided into 2 phases:

1920s - Richly-colored, extreme geometric patterns

1930s - More elegant designs with rounded geometric forms.
Use of a cooler pallet of colors such
as pastels is popular.
 

Art Moderne
 
1935 - 1940
Asymmetrical, sleek, streamlined and unornamented in appearance.
 Can be confused with Art deco, however they are two separate and distinct styles.
Deco is more showy in appearance with its geometric designs being composed of more detailed elements.
 

Retro
 
1940s - 1950  
Flamboyant curves mixed with bows and curvilinear designs.
Yellow, pink, rose and green gold were used.

World War II brought about a shortage of gold and platinum.
Sterling silver was plated with golds of various colors.
Large singular gemstones of glass were used to further accent jewelry.  Jewelry was mostly oversized.
 

Age of Rhinestones

(Glamourous '50s)
1950s
Heavy use of rhinestones in various colors.
Aurora Borealis became popular
Big beads in many colors also popular.

Dresses, purses, trinket boxes, smoking accessories, etc.
 were also studded with rhinestones.